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In the dead of night. The speeding vehicles on Grand Trunk Road come to a halt on reaching a narrow bridge near Kalyana village, midway between Ambala and Kurukshetra in Haryana. In minutes, there's a traffic snarl-up. Yet there are no frayed tempers. Instead, bleary-eyed drivers walk briskly to a small shrine, tucked a few steps below the road. It's time to invoke the blessings of the Nau Gaja Pir for a safe journey. Called so because of his nine-metre-long grave, the Pir is a veritable "highway god" for travellers of all communities on the country's busiest road. A small illuminated roadside sign proclaiming the dargah of Syed Mohammad Ebrahim is a revered signal, and most drivers stop over, rushed or not. Inside the tin-roofed shrine, what strikes any visitor the most are clocks. Dozens
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